In the southeast neighborhood of Bell Gardens, the restaurant El Zarape Michoacano offers a version topped with a spicy spare rib guisado in a salsa roja.

2 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth.2 confit duck legs, skinned and meat coarsely shredded.

1/4 cup thinly sliced chorizo.1/4 cup sliced pitted kalamata olives.1/4 cup diced dried apricots.

In a large ovenproof skillet, heat the oil until shimmering.Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderately low heat until softened, 5 minutes.

Add the tomato and cook until softened, 5 minutes.

Stir in the paprika and saffron.Add the potato, cover and simmer over low heat until tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the watercress and cook until bright green, about 2 minutes..Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender.

Return the soup to the saucepan.Add the whole and skim milk and season with salt and pepper; keep warm..